iPhone See-View 3D

Today there is many ways of displaying photos outside of a computer or in print. Mobile or cell phones have now become a common way to show and share images. The iPhone is probably the most popular type of phone to do this.

In order to display images on these phones certain Apps are needed. Like computer programs there are many different types of Apps for different purposes. The See-View 3D Image Browser is one of them.

See-View is the revolutionary 3D image browser which makes viewing photos on your iPhone fun.

Groundbreaking technology specially adapted for the iPhone platform provides an intuitive experience by allowing you to glide through our 3D world. Rotate, zoom, spin and select as you put new life into a photo collection.The browser can also sort by colour, shape and content.

View up to 500 images, automatically clustered into groups of 30 for use on the iPhone. The photos are grouped by similarity using our mapping technology, making it easier to find what you want to see.

See an overview of the collection displayed on the face of each box and then dip into the box of your choice to see more of the same. Once inside the 3D space, move from box to box to view the entire collection.

This App is currently being developed for iPad.

This camera is one worth noting whether it ever becomes a success or not. For one it is a Leica, probably one of the most highly rated camera and optical manufacturers in the world. But this is their first step into the medium format world.

For those who do not know what is meant by “medium format”: The term goes back to film size. Medium format was a term used for 120 and 220mm film. A film size over double the size of 35mm, which was the standard for SLR cameras.

Medium format film cameras were much larger then SLRs due to this much larger film size. Traditionally medium format cameras lacked the bells and whistles of SLR cameras. Most of these cameras only had manual exposure and focusing, most didn’t even have a built-in light meter.

At first glance the Leica S2 looks like a slightly larger then average DSLR, though about the same size, if not smaller then professional DSLRs such as the Nikon D3 or Canon EOS1. Unlike other medium format digital cameras, it looks more like a DSLR. But the comparison stops there.

In medium format tradition, the body of the camera looks clean and clutter free. It lacks much of the knobs, buttons and lights that can be found on even the most basic entry level DSLR. Even when getting into the menus and settings, there is no sign of idiot modes such as subject programs. The one dial is on the top plate and it is a simple shutter speed dial. The other main button is the thumb wheel on the back of the camera. This controls and selects most of the menu functions.

Exposure functions include Manual, Aperture Priority, Shuter Priority and Program. ISO goes from 160 to 1250 but only in full stops. Metering options are Multi-point, Centre Weighted and Spot. Flash options include 1st and 2nd curtain sync.However flash sync is a sluggish 1/125 sec. A faster shutter speed can be obtained using lenses with a leaf shutter. Unlike all other DSLR cameras, there is only one focusing point for the autofocusing system.

This camera isn’t about automated marvels, it is a photographers camera that oozes build quality and delivers amazing quality images through the highest quality lenses money can buy and a 37.5 megapixel sensor. Yes that’s right…37.5 megapixels. That means images of 4992 x 7512 pixels delivering a 73 mb RAW file. There is no denying image sharpness is impeccable, even up to A1 size prints. The secret to these superb images is also in the lens quality. However the range of lenses at the moment for this camera are limited to just three; 38mm, 70mm, 180mm. The 70mm is the standard lens. However more lenses are on the way, one rumoured to be a zoom lens.

Images are taken in RAW format but there is an option to shoot in jpeg, for use as proofs. RAw images are saved to a Compact Flash card while the jpegs are sent to an SD card. Of course another option of saving images, which would be commonly used by photographers who would use this camera, straight to a computer.

It seems there is a downside to every camera. Some of the features could have been improved without any real sacrifice. However one important flaw is the way images are transfered off the camera. The industry standard is Firewire but Leica have chosen USB, which is about 20% slower. This can be a strain during a professional shoot, slowing down the shoot.

There is no doubt this is a professional camera. The features are aimed specifically at the professional ignoring the budding amateur and so is the pricetag. At a price of $23,000 body only, it is quite a bit more expensive then rival digital medium format cameras, not to mention many cars! But this is the price for sheer quality.

Want to learn how to use this camera, take a School of Photography.com course.

Some criticism has been made to the lack of new and improved features with some previous versions of Photoshop CS. However this version seems to justify itself with the amount of improvements and new features added.

Here are some of the new and improved features.

• Adobe Camera Raw 6 – ACR enables the ability to edit RAW images in its own workspace. ACR 6 is the latest version available with CS5. With this new version there is a variety of film-like effects, post-crop vignetting, noise removal with better control and higher quality sharpening.

• Refine Edge Tool – The new Refine Edge feature makes the job of creating complex selections with both hard and soft edges so much easier and more accurate. This is very apparent when attempting a selection around hair. A rough selection can be made, activate Refine Edge and brush around the intricate border of hair and this becomes a perfect instant result.

• Content-Aware Fill and Heal – In CS5 you can make a simple selection around an object and fill it via the new content-Aware option. which gives completely seamless results. You can also use CA technology with the spot healing brush painting out imperfections in a single stroke. Content-Aware makes healing simple and easy

• HDR Toning – This enables the creation of HDR images without taking bracketed exposures. The tool enables the creation of faux HDR image from one image. Even with this, all the HDR tools can be used including a Toning Curve.

• Lens Correction – A great tool for correcting lens distortion, particularly handy when correcting images taken with a compact camera. This has now been further enhanced with auto presets to make correcting lens distortion easier. It still has the capability of manually adjusting the image.

There are many more additions and tweaks to this program as compared with previous versions. Unlike some previous versions, CS5 is a worthy upgrade, particularly if you have CS3 or below. The increased speed of the program is also a welcome addition. Adobe was never accused of selling their Photoshop programs cheap but if you need the power this program provides, then it is reasonable value for money.

The amount of new DSLR cameras that come out is a steady stream to say the least. Canon are no strangers to marketing new upgraded models while the previous model hasn’t even left a dust ring on the store shelf. However with the Canon EOS 550D, there are some very good improvements and upgrades.

Less than a year after the launch of the Canon EOS 500D (Rebel T1i) comes the Canon EOS 550D (Rebel T2i). Canon started its entry level DSLR range with the EOS 300D (Rebel) and has worked through the numbers up to this. However this is no longer what would be considered an entry level camera. This title has been taken over by the much lower priced and spec EOS 1000D. In Fact the EOS 550D would be considered an upgrade for most entry level Canon owners.

The camera is light and easy to handle. One improvement made is the slightly bigger buttons and knobs for ease of use. Some other easy use features have been added as well such as a Display Off Sensor, which turns off the LCD when the user puts their eye to the viewfinder.

Some of the main attractions to the Canon EOS 550D (Rebel T2i) include:

• An 18MP CMOS sensor
• Large high resolution LCD screen
• Improved 63 zone metering
• High ISO ranges.
• HD Movie Mode

18MP CMOS sensor

The 18MP chip is the same as used on the much higher end Canon EOS 7D. There is a point where pixel counting becomes a thing of the past but it does aid in giving very high dynamic results.

Large high resolution LCD screen

The 3″ LCD screen bosts 1040000 dots resulting in a very clear view either used as a viewfinder (live view) or reviewing images.

Improved 63 zone metering

The EOS 500D has a 35 zone metering system. The new EOS 550D has 63 zones from which to read the exposure.

High ISO ranges.

The set ranges goes up to 6400 ISO, which isn’t bad. However using the Auto ISO it is possible to get a sensitivity equivalent to 12800 ISO.

HD Movie Mode

The capability to shoot movies using a DSLR is still unique to a few cameras. This model has gone one step further in including a full HD movie mode (1080p).

These are just some of the outstanding features available on the Canon EOS 550D. However don’t throw out the Canon EOS 500D brochure you’ve been drooling over. With the higher price of the 550D at launch, the Canon 500D will still be available at a reduced price.

Naturally these images are outstanding because they are selected from hundreds of project submissions. In fact only a handful of images are selected through the course of a year.

So far for 2010 there have been 7 images added to the student gallery. These are as follows:

Waterway by Diane Dugas, Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Image submitted by Diane for the Freelance Photography Project 3.

Majestic by Maria Warnes, St Ives, Cambs, UK. Image submitted by Maria for Digital Photography Project 4.

Emotion by Diane Dugas, Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Image submitted by Diane for Freelance Photography Project 3.

The Woods Today by Kira Ellender, Folkstone, Kent, UK. Image submitted by Kira for Basic Photography Project 5.

Forgotten Classic by Lindsay Anderson, NW Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Image submitted by Lindsay for Basic Photography Project 3.

Cream Bud by Kira Ellender, Folkstone, Kent, England. Image submitted by Kira for Digital Imaging Project 1.

Autumn Colors by Sebastjan Reven, Logatec, Slovenia. Image submitted by Sebastjan for Landscape Photography Project 1.

Congratulations to all.

You can see these images in our Student Gallery.

You are welcome to browse all our Student and Tutors Galleries.

If you would like to take stunning images like these, enroll in one or more of our many courses.

Fig 1 - Tatra Mountains, Slovakia Original

It seems most of us take the bulk of our photos during the summer. The weather is pleasant and we generally have more time due to holidays/vacations. This is also true for the landscape enthusiast. Even though most scenic locations may look better in autumn or spring, summer may be the only time for most to enjoy taking landscape images.

Fig 2 - Photoshop Elements: Replace Color

Year round, there is ample opportunity to take good landscape images, however Autumn is argueably the best time. The colours in the foliage are at their most varied and vibrant.

The image in fig 1 was taken at the beginning of August. The colours in the foliage are dull and there is very little variation in the shade of green. This is typical of most locations at this point in summer. However here is a way of transforming that dull summer snap to a colourful autumnal image without leaving your seat.

In Photoshop Elements this can be easily achieved. Go to Enhance>Adjust Color>Replace Color. The dialog box in default shows a type of negative lith image of the photo. Using the Color Picker, select the shade of colour you want to alter. The lith type image will alter showing how much of that shade is in the image and effected by any changes made. Fuzziness can increase or decrease the shades within that general colour.

Once the shades are selected the colour can be altered dramatically. In fig 2 you can see a colour box called “Reset” (circled in yellow. Double clicking on this opens another dialog box indicated as “Select Target Color”. Here the colour can be changed using any one or more of the features in this box. Our colours for fig 3 were chosen by moving the slider down to an orangy/red colour and then fine tuning this in the larger Color window.

This dramtic but simple adjustment only takes about 10 minutes to perform. Naturally some experimentation is needed to get the effect just right.

To learn more about Digital Imaging or Landscape Photography, see our range of courses.

It is now the Creative Photography Course and like all our recently updated courses, uses the Moodle e-learning management system, which we have found to be very successful. The Course and new system is much more manoeuvrable and we are sure, a much easier learning experience.

When the Basic Photography Course was first rolled out in 2000, film was the main capture media and digital cameras were expensive, poor quality and few people had one. Therefore the course originally only gave mention that digital media existed. Through the years the course had many updates and digital matters increased dramatically with each update. However the framework of the old course still existed and made further changes to the course more and more difficult and time consuming.

Due to the ease of use of the e-learning system we are now using for our systems operators, updates will be much more frequent and ongoing. This is particularly important as the digital media landscape seems to constantly change. This means any new technologies, camera features or standards can be installed almost instantly with little or no upset to the existing course material, which had proved to be a problem with the old system.

The Creative Photography Course is the complete package for learning the art of photography. Our new flagship course is designed for the person who has no prior knowledge in photography. The course starts from scratch. At the end the student will be very competent and confident in the use of a camera and will learn how to take fantastic images.

So learn to Master the Art of Photography Online Today

Our answer is usually in short; no. Adobe Photoshop is a professional program that has a wide range of uses, not just still photography. Therefore it has many features, a good proportion of which the still photographer would never use. This versatility makes the software popular but complicated and expensive.

There are a good number of digital image editing programs that are directed at the still photographer at a fraction of the cost. The difference between the results achieved from the full Photoshop program and others is usually not noticeable (depending on the particular program) in the final result of image editing.

Most features from one program to the next are similar as well. Once the user is familiar with the features within a given program, the exact same results can be achieved, possibly in just a different manner, in another program.

Just one example of an alternative to the full Photoshop software would be from Adobe themselves: Adobe Photoshop Elements.

Photoshop Elements is aimed directly at the still photographer and can even be used on a professional basis for some photographic practices. It may be deemed as a “beginners” image editing software, but this is mainly due to the beginners options that are in the program. In fact the full editing option within the program is very similar to Photoshop. The difference between this program and the full Photoshop program is a lot of options that would not be a concern to the still photographer have been removed. This makes the program more user friendly and competitively priced.

Learn how to use and get the most from your image editing program, in particular Adobe Photoshop Elements with our Digital Imaging Course.

The Manual Mode setting.

Normally when you are about to take a few photos, you have a subject in mind. Therefore you can initially decide whether you need a fast shutter speed or maximum depth of field, etc. For example if it is a few sports photos, most likely there is action involved requiring a fast shutter speed. Simply adjust the Aperture to the smallest f-number, take a meter reading and then adjust the Shutter Speed until the meter reads correctly. If you feel the shutter speed is still not fast enough, then increase the ISO.

Likewise if depth of field is an issue, adjust the shutter speed to a minimum handheld shutter speed or slower if using a tripod. Then adjust the Aperture to higher f-numbers until the meter reads correctly. Again ISO can be adjusted if the Aperture value is insufficient.

Manual Mode is not one to be used all the time as it is slow to use. But it does have its advantages when there is time allowed to take good quality images. Also when used regularly, the photographer, especially beginners, gain a much better understanding of their camera and how a particular camera reacts in certain lighting situations.

So next time your out with the camera, get a bit of fun out of it in just trying to perfect that exposure using your own knowledge and initiative, you will find the reward in bagging a good image even better.

To learn all there is to know about exposure and the Manual Exposure Mode, enroll in our Basic Photography Course.

To create this effect, follow these steps:

1 – USE A TRIPOD! Without some way of keeping the camera rigid you are going to get blur from camera shake at shutter speeds below 1/60 of a second with a standard lens. Also, either use a cable release or the self timer on your camera to trip the shutter, this eliminates camera shake when the shutter button is pressed.

2 – Carefully focus on the area in the image that you want sharp with manual focus. Remember that what will remain sharp is anything that doesn’t move.

3 – Use as slow a shutter speed as light conditions will allow. 1/2 a second or slower will give the best results. The easiest way to determine the exposure necessary is by taking a meter reading using the highest f-number on your lens (usually between f16 and f32). Always use manual exposure mode (M) for this type of work for assured results.

4 – Choose a time of day (early morning or late evening) when light levels are low in order to acheive slow shutter speeds. Use slow ISO rating of 100 or lower. For a good effect don’t use flash, this only helps to freeze movement. Having said this, sometimes using flash and slow shutter speeds creates a nice affect.

A useful aid for getting shutter speeds even slower would be a neutral density filter.

If you would like to know all there is to know about using your camera, enroll in our Basic Photography Course today!